Meyer-Kaiser lab

On the way from Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales on Route 9 , our bus had to stop for a herd of cows to cross the road! If you grew up in the 1990s like me, you certainly learned about the Ozone Hole in school. The "hole" is an area in the atmosphere, centered over Antarctica, where ozone is pretty sparse, and more UV radiation makes it through the atmosphere to the surface of Earth. We were at pretty high latitude (51 - 53 deg) in the southern hemisphere, so UV was a concern. I always made sure to cover up and use sunscreen when we were outdoors. This abandoned pier outside Puerto Natales is now a bird habitat. There are a lot of dogs on the streets in Chile, but it's unclear whether they are pets or strays. My experience in Palau taught me that in some countries, there is a large gray area between the two categories - there are pets who roam, and there are strays who have a home base. We're not sure which category this guy belonged to. He was incredibly polite, as mo...

After a few days in Puerto Natales and lots of hikes in Torres del Paine National Park, the Geodynamics class returned south to Punta Arenas. We toured the Chilean Antarctic Center so the students could have another introduction to Antarctic research. I shipped home a total of 32 samples from 11 stations including near glaciers, in glacial lakes , near icebergs, and throughout the fjord . I was feeling victorious. What could cap off a highly successful trip to Patagonia? One more hike, of course.  My colleague and co-instructor, Michelle, came with me to the Magallanes National Reserve just west of Punta Arenas. The circuit trail, Las Lengas, takes you through the Patagonian forest to a series of viewpoints overlooking the Strait of Magellan. It was a beautiful hike.  I kept seeing these small red berries everywhere, and they reminded me of cranberries. I looked it up, and they are actually related to cranberries!  A beautiful mushroom  Looking out from Mirador Zapa...

A major reason why the Geodynamics class traveled to Patagonia this year was to see glaciers! I want to highlight some of the glaciers we visited and the sights we encountered along the way.  Seen in Torres del Paine National Park. Photo by Elena Perez. Glacial lakes abound in Torres del Paine. These lakes are filled with glacial meltwater. The dark color is from sediment that was released by the melting glacier. Photo by Elena Perez. An iceberg in Lago Grey, a glacial lake fed by Grey Glacier. Photo by Elena Perez. Sunrise at the entrance to Torres del Paine National Park. Serrano Glacier, in Bernard O'Higgins National Park. Photo by Marta Faulkner. Balmaceda Glacier. Photo by Marta Faulkner. One of our open-water sampling stations in the fjord outside Puerto Natales.  Filtering eDNA from water samples in the fjord! Photo by Marta Faulkner. Another freshwater input to the fjord - a waterfall! Photo by Marta Faulkner.

Fog over the cormorants. Photo by Marta Faulkner. Fog hung over the fjord as we pulled away from the dock in the early morning. It wasn't thick or soupy like fog sometimes is. Rather, the moisture clung together in ribbons that weaved around the rocky hills. The fog had its own agenda, knew its own limits. It did not feel the need to blanket us but rather traversed its own path between the peaks. The fog let us be.  After leaving the dock, our first stop was at a cormorant colony. I felt the boat's engines shift gear and calm their mechanical whir. After years of working at sea, the drop of an engine to me means one thing and one thing only: we have arrived at a sampling station.  I didn't care about the cormorant colony. Or the seals that lounged on rocks at the next stop. Or the waterfall cascading into the sea. Each of those marvelous sights drew the 100-some passengers on our boat out of doors, cameras in hand. They slid past one another in the narrow passages and elbow...

Friends, in addition to leading the Geodynamics students around Patagonia, I have my own personal mission: I am collecting samples. (Of course I am. Are you really surprised? Have you ever known me to travel and just enjoy ? Come on.) The samples I'm collecting are part of a project on icebergs that actually served as the impetus for this year's Geodynamics class focusing on the Southern Ocean and coming to Patagonia. The icebergs project came first, and the class took shape around it.  On the dock outside Puerto Natales where I collected my  first samples - it was a successful afternoon! The icebergs project is an effort to understand how ice impacts the marine ecosystem. As many of you know, I have studied the dynamics of dropstone communities in the Arctic since my PhD . Dropstones are terrestrial stones that become entrained glaciers, are carried out to sea by icebergs that calve off of those glaciers, and then fall to the seafloor when the icebergs melt. I have studied ho...

Looking out from inside Cueva del Milod όn With all the Geodynamics students finally in Patagonia, we traveled from Punta Arenas up to Puerto Natales . If Punta Arenas is the research hub of Patagonia, Puerto Natales is the outdoor adventure hub. There are hostels on pretty much every street corner, and plenty of people around town have giant backpacks to survive multiple days in the mountains. That's because Puerto Natales serves as the gateway to Torres del Paine National Park .  Some of the more ambitious students took off on a hike in the park as soon as we arrived. Others explored a ca ve near town, and it is this latter destination that I want to highlight: la Cueva del Milodόn (Mylodon Cave).  If you haven't seen a Mylodon before, that's understandable. They're extinct. Mylodons were giant ground sloths that lived in the southern part of South America, including Patagonia, in the late Pleistocene. They were massive - 3 or 4 m long, with body masses in the tons. C...

At the halfway point in my trip, my companions completely changed. Carl and Maria , who had accompanied me on the vacation leg, headed home to resume normal life, and they were replaced by 18 PhD students and 3 of my fellow faculty in the MIT-WHOI Joint Program. In between, I had just enough time to switch hotels and do a load of laundry in the bathtub. The 2025 WHOI Geodynamics Patagonia trip was on! [Well, for most of us. A group of 9 people got hung up in transit and ended up arriving a day later than planned. Anytime you try to take 22 people to a new continent, someone's flight will be delayed. It's basically a law of nature.] R/V Noosfera at the pier in Punta Arenas.  Photo by Michelle Shero. Those of us who made it to Chile on the first day had a good start to our trip - with a scientific meeting. It was important to me to connect with researchers on the ground during our visit to Patagonia. One of our motivations for flying into Punta Arenas was to experience the Sout...