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Wet run

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Friends, in addition to leading the Geodynamics students around Patagonia, I have my own personal mission: I am collecting samples. (Of course I am. Are you really surprised? Have you ever known me to travel and just enjoy ? Come on.) The samples I'm collecting are part of a project on icebergs that actually served as the impetus for this year's Geodynamics class focusing on the Southern Ocean and coming to Patagonia. The icebergs project came first, and the class took shape around it.  On the dock outside Puerto Natales where I collected my  first samples - it was a successful afternoon! The icebergs project is an effort to understand how ice impacts the marine ecosystem. As many of you know, I have studied the dynamics of dropstone communities in the Arctic since my PhD . Dropstones are terrestrial stones that become entrained glaciers, are carried out to sea by icebergs that calve off of those glaciers, and then fall to the seafloor when the icebergs melt. I have studied ho...

Cueva del Milodόn

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Looking out from inside Cueva del Milod όn With all the Geodynamics students finally in Patagonia, we traveled from Punta Arenas up to Puerto Natales . If Punta Arenas is the research hub of Patagonia, Puerto Natales is the outdoor adventure hub. There are hostels on pretty much every street corner, and plenty of people around town have giant backpacks to survive multiple days in the mountains. That's because Puerto Natales serves as the gateway to Torres del Paine National Park .  Some of the more ambitious students took off on a hike in the park as soon as we arrived. Others explored a ca ve near town, and it is this latter destination that I want to highlight: la Cueva del Milodόn (Mylodon Cave).  If you haven't seen a Mylodon before, that's understandable. They're extinct. Mylodons were giant ground sloths that lived in the southern part of South America, including Patagonia, in the late Pleistocene. They were massive - 3 or 4 m long, with body masses in the tons. C...

New arrivals

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At the halfway point in my trip, my companions completely changed. Carl and Maria , who had accompanied me on the vacation leg, headed home to resume normal life, and they were replaced by 18 PhD students and 3 of my fellow faculty in the MIT-WHOI Joint Program. In between, I had just enough time to switch hotels and do a load of laundry in the bathtub. The 2025 WHOI Geodynamics Patagonia trip was on! [Well, for most of us. A group of 9 people got hung up in transit and ended up arriving a day later than planned. Anytime you try to take 22 people to a new continent, someone's flight will be delayed. It's basically a law of nature.] R/V Noosfera at the pier in Punta Arenas.  Photo by Michelle Shero. Those of us who made it to Chile on the first day had a good start to our trip - with a scientific meeting. It was important to me to connect with researchers on the ground during our visit to Patagonia. One of our motivations for flying into Punta Arenas was to experience the Sout...

Penguins!

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By far my favorite thing that we did in Punta Arenas was visit Isla Magdalena to see the breeding colony of Magellanic penguins ( Spheniscus magellanicus ). These adorable flightless birds migrate every year to the tropics on the west and east sides of South America, then return to Patagonia to breed. The males arrive first to make burrows, and the females arrive a bit later. A clutch of exactly two eggs is laid in October, and the chicks hatch 40 days later. During our visit (in March), the juveniles had just molted and left the island. The adults were completing their own molt and getting ready to return north for the winter.  This post will contain a lot of penguin pictures. I just have to share them! This is what the landscape looks like at Isla Magdalena - a lighthouse, grass, and penguins. Hi, little guy! Some penguins headed to the beach We were told not to touch the penguins, to give them plenty of space, and to let them cross the path without interference. This little guy ...

Down to the city

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After a few days in what seemed like the end of the world, remote Torres del Paine , we turned around and followed the Route to the End of the World back south...to the actual end of the world. Friends, I am in Punta Arenas, Chile! Punta Arenas certainly doesn't seem like the end of the world. It's a city with 145,000 people. There are restaurants and shopping malls and traffic noise. If you air-dropped me in the middle of downtown with no information and made me guess where I was, I would never guess "On an isolated peninsula at the bottom of the globe."  The first Chileans to live in Punta Arenas arrived here in 1848, after a short-lived attempt to settle further south. Fuerte Bulnes (Bulnes Fort), the site of the first Chilean settlement in the Magallanes region, is exposed and windy - I can tell you that from personal experience after visiting the historic site. Bulnes actually got such a bad reputation for living conditions that it eventually became a penal colo...

Wildlife of Patagonia

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Guanacos! These funny animals ( Lama guanicoe ) are the relatives of llamas and alpacas, and they belong to the same family as camels. They are everywhere ! We saw a ton of these duck-ish birds. I tried hard to get a good picture so I could upload it to this species identification app I use. After all that trouble, the app said "it's a bird." Yeah, thanks, app. A visit to the natural history museum showed me that this darling is in fact a male Upland Goose ( Chloephaga picta ), also called Caiquén. My first thought when I saw these birds was "emu," but I knew I was on the wrong continent. Instead, these are rheas! Also called ñandus, they are the South American equivalent of emus or ostriches. The species in Patagonia is Rhea pennata . We visited a rocky intertidal site, and I was excited to see blue mussels! These are Mytilus chilensis , a close relative of the species I'm familiar with from the northern hemisphere. Just like their boreal brethren, M. chile...

Seen in Patagonia

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  The towers with a glacial lake (Laguna Azul) Ranching is ubiquitous in Patagonia Super weird cloud formation seen in Torres del Paine My husband is a dork.