Aveiro

A couple of months ago, I got an e-mail from my friend, Luciana. She was planning a workshop on sustained collections of deep-sea larvae. There are a number of ocean observatories around the world with long-term infrastructure, and she wanted to collect ideas for integrating larval samples into those observatories. I was invited, and after a bit of planning, friends, I am in Aveiro, Portugal!

I had always heard about Aveiro from Luciana. It was her hometown, and while we worked together in the same lab in Oregon, she would tell me about the city of canals and beaches and pottery. This is my first chance to experience it myself. Aveiro is like many towns with marine biological institutions - it is located right on the coast, is not necessarily the prettiest place, has lots of wind and waves and nature, and hosts a vibrant community of researchers. The size, layout, and state of maintenance of the city actually reminds me a lot of Bremerhaven, Germany. I feel right at home.

Canals in downtown Aveiro

The city center is a matrix of narrow streets that curve around each other and open unexpectedly into beautiful squares. A canal carves its way through the center, punctuated by bridges and frequented by long, painted boats with curved ends – Portuguese gondolas, if you will.

Tiles on a home in Aveiro

One unique thing I noticed about the architecture is that many houses are covered in tiles. They have bright, repetitive patterns and remind me of what an American might use in their bathroom or kitchen, except they cover the entire façade of the house like shingles. I knew Aveiro was famous for its pottery, but I had no idea the ceramics were used in construction. At the end of one of the canals was an old ceramics factory (ironically built out of brick), indicative of an industry with longevity.

The other thing that struck me about Aveiro was the food. I’ve spent most of my adult life on the coasts of various countries and am well-accustomed to seafood-heavy diets, but I did not expect just how heavily the diet in Aveiro emphasizes fish. Restaurant menus do not list fish dishes but rather just types of fish with the prices per kg. The catch of the day is displayed on ice or live in tanks near the restaurant entrance (this actually reminded me of China). You make your selection and then receive your fish cooked whole on a plate with all the bones and the head still attached. Sure, vegetables and potatoes are served alongside, but they come in small portions to be shared by the table.

If there is one thing I want to eat again in Portugal, it is octopus. I don’t know if it’s because of the freshness or the species or the skill of the chef, but all the octopus I had in Aveiro was perfectly done – not rubbery at all, with a texture similar to poultry. It was incredible.

I am glad for the chance to experience Aveiro and looking forward to a good workshop!