Ungil tutau

“Ungil tutau!” Nelson greeted me.

“No, we’re going to Mecherchar today,” I responded. Nelson and Gil looked at me quizzically. Gil figured it out first.

“No, he’s telling you ‘good morning’ in the local language. Ungil tutau,” Gil explained.

“Oh, I’m so sorry! I thought you were saying let’s go to Taoch,” I explained.

We giggled for a second, and then I spent the next several minutes practicing the pronunciation. Ungil tutau. Ungil tutau. Ungil tutau. Two days later, I was able to greet Nelson with the same enthusiastic phrase. Ungil tutau – good morning!

On board the PICRC boat with Nelson and Gil.
Photo by Kharis Schrage.

Every day when we go out on the boat to collect samples, Kharis and I are joined by two Palauan men: Nelson, the boat operator, and Gil, a Koror State Ranger. They are an absolute delight. Gil’s job as a Ranger is to keep an eye on our research and make sure we’re not violating our permits. It took me about a day to earn his trust, but since then, he’s been laid-back and helpful. When Kharis and I get out of the water, the men take our fins, help steady our tanks, and watch curiously over our shoulders as we process the specimens. Gil even brought his own snorkeling gear to watch us collect samples, but he ended up free-diving to help us recover data loggers.

It’s obvious that the men enjoy being in the field with us, too. A few days in, they started taking turns snorkeling at the surface while we dove. Nelson brought a fishing pole. Most of the conversation alternates between science and Palauan culture, and we’ve definitely learned a lot from each other.

It’s been a very positive experience working with both Nelson and Gil. I am grateful for their company at sea.