Giants with shoulders
"I've learned that people will forget what you said; people will forget what you did, but people will never forget how you made them feel." - Maya Angelou
While in Oslo for the weekend with Ingeborg, I made a point of visiting some museums. I've already told you about the Munch Museum. The following day, I headed to the Fram and Kon-Tiki Museums, both located at what is called Bygdøynes, a peninsula west of the city center.
The Fram is a polar research vessel which was used in three famous expeditions: first, it was captained by Fridtjof Nansen and allowed to freeze up in sea-ice with the hopes of finding the North Pole; second, it was used to explore around Greenland; and third, it transported Amundsen and his crew to Antarctica for their legendary race to the South Pole. I find it astounding that this ship is still intact.
I didn't realize before I got there, but the Fram Museum was built around the ship. Historical photos showed the ship being hauled out of the fjord, placed in its current location, and then the rafters of the museum being built around it. Museum visitors can even board the ship indoors.
Exploring the ship was an incredible experience. It's wooden, and the hull is much rounder than other ships. It was constructed specifically to survive being frozen in sea ice, so it's meant to be pushed up and away from the sea surface rather than just sitting there and trying to withstand the pressure. The ship was surprisingly small, and the chambers were quite cramped. I've been on a decent number of ships in recent years, and I can tell you that even in larger spaces and over shorter time scales, cabin fever is not uncommon. I can only imagine what the men aboard went through, seeing the same walls every day for years, completely isolated from civilization, unsure whether they'd live to see home.
As I surveyed the ship, I couldn't help but think about those who had been there before me. Each door had the names of the former inhabitants written above the door frame. The three biggest names, of course, are Nansen, Amundsen, and Sverdrup. Nansen and Amundsen were expedition leaders, and Sverdrup was an oceanographer that even has a unit of measurement named after him. I knew very little about these famous explorers before visiting the museum, and I have to admit, now that I know about their lives, I'm even more impressed.
Nansen was primarily a scientist but also a humanitarian. After the first Fram expedition, he was appointed as an ambassador and later as High Commissioner for Refugees for the League of Nations. He devised the so-called "Nansen passport," a form of identification that allows refugees to cross borders quickly and legally, and in 1922, he was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize.
Nansen's life demonstrated to me something very important: the legacy that a person leaves behind is not just that one great thing they accomplished; rather, it is the sum of their activities while on earth. It is possible to accomplish multiple great things during one lifetime. Furthermore, those who are remembered most are not just great scientists or hardy adventurers but also fantastic human beings. I'm officially adding Fridtjof Nansen to my list of favorite people.
Roald Amundsen also accomplished multiple great things in his lifetime, but what I'll remember most is how he treated other people. There was an entire display about how he and his men lived among the Inuit of northern Canada during their exploration of the Northwest Passage. They learned the Inuit language, accepted gifts of furs, and learned how to hunt. Several quotes were posted in the museum from Inuit chiefs who remembered Amundsen's generosity, kindness, and willingnes to learn.
I realized a long time ago how important it is to respect the local people in any location. In fact, I would argue that it is the duty of any traveler to learn, to integrate, to handle locals with respect, and to adopt the local culture. It was so reassuring to learn that Amundsen had this same attitude and that he is still remembered for it among the Inuit today.
How immensely important it is to be not just a giant of history but also a decent human being. I walked away from the Fram Museum deeply impressed by Nansen and Amundsen. It is their shoulders on which I would like to stand.
While in Oslo for the weekend with Ingeborg, I made a point of visiting some museums. I've already told you about the Munch Museum. The following day, I headed to the Fram and Kon-Tiki Museums, both located at what is called Bygdøynes, a peninsula west of the city center.
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| Me aboard the Fram. Photographed by me at the Fram Museum, Oslo, 2014. |
I didn't realize before I got there, but the Fram Museum was built around the ship. Historical photos showed the ship being hauled out of the fjord, placed in its current location, and then the rafters of the museum being built around it. Museum visitors can even board the ship indoors.
 |
| Tools and boots used aboard the Fram. Photographed by me at the Fram Museum, Oslo, 2014. |
Exploring the ship was an incredible experience. It's wooden, and the hull is much rounder than other ships. It was constructed specifically to survive being frozen in sea ice, so it's meant to be pushed up and away from the sea surface rather than just sitting there and trying to withstand the pressure. The ship was surprisingly small, and the chambers were quite cramped. I've been on a decent number of ships in recent years, and I can tell you that even in larger spaces and over shorter time scales, cabin fever is not uncommon. I can only imagine what the men aboard went through, seeing the same walls every day for years, completely isolated from civilization, unsure whether they'd live to see home.
 |
| Sverdrup's name over his cabin door. Photographed by me at the Fram Museum, Oslo, 2014. |
As I surveyed the ship, I couldn't help but think about those who had been there before me. Each door had the names of the former inhabitants written above the door frame. The three biggest names, of course, are Nansen, Amundsen, and Sverdrup. Nansen and Amundsen were expedition leaders, and Sverdrup was an oceanographer that even has a unit of measurement named after him. I knew very little about these famous explorers before visiting the museum, and I have to admit, now that I know about their lives, I'm even more impressed.
Nansen was primarily a scientist but also a humanitarian. After the first Fram expedition, he was appointed as an ambassador and later as High Commissioner for Refugees for the League of Nations. He devised the so-called "Nansen passport," a form of identification that allows refugees to cross borders quickly and legally, and in 1922, he was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize.
Nansen's life demonstrated to me something very important: the legacy that a person leaves behind is not just that one great thing they accomplished; rather, it is the sum of their activities while on earth. It is possible to accomplish multiple great things during one lifetime. Furthermore, those who are remembered most are not just great scientists or hardy adventurers but also fantastic human beings. I'm officially adding Fridtjof Nansen to my list of favorite people.
 |
| Exhibit about Amundsen's life among the Inuit. Photographed by me at the Fram Museum, Oslo, 2014. |
I realized a long time ago how important it is to respect the local people in any location. In fact, I would argue that it is the duty of any traveler to learn, to integrate, to handle locals with respect, and to adopt the local culture. It was so reassuring to learn that Amundsen had this same attitude and that he is still remembered for it among the Inuit today.
How immensely important it is to be not just a giant of history but also a decent human being. I walked away from the Fram Museum deeply impressed by Nansen and Amundsen. It is their shoulders on which I would like to stand.
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